Abrusco (Abrostine, Colorino) RARE GRAPE red

History: Abrusco is a Tuscan varietal with references dating back to the 1400's which reached its peak cultivation in the 19th century, particularly in Tuscany's Chianti area, where it was extensively planted in the provinces of Siena and Arezzo.

However, the late 19th-century phylloxera outbreaks devastated Italian vineyards, including those of Abrusco, leading to significant losses and necessitating widespread replanting efforts. The grape's decline accelerated in the 20th century, exacerbated by post-World War II shifts toward higher-yield, more reliable varieties that better suited mechanized and intensive farming practices. Abrusco's irregular productivity and sensitivity to environmental stresses, such as water scarcity, further marginalized it in favor of more adaptable cultivars. By the late 20th century, it had become one of Italy's rarest varieties, nearly vanishing from commercial cultivation. Today there is said to be fewer than 5 hectares, referred to as Abrusco, in Italy being almost extinct from active viticulture.

Officially registered in the National Catalogue of Vine Varieties since 1999, it belongs to the teinturier class of grape varieties, with red/pigmented pulp, offering more than just added color and weight to a wine in a blending role but has been known to produce rather appealing monovarietal wines.

The plant has medium vigor, an expanding habit, and good resistance to cold.  It has medium-sized berries, with thick skin and an intense blue-black color, rich in anthocyanins. It ripens late, and requires a long vegetative cycle to bring the grapes to perfect ripeness and can be vulnerable to powdery mildew and leaf curl.

Said to be a difficult varietal to work with, it only requires a short maceration and lengthy maturation to allow it to smoothen sufficiently resulting in less complex wine on the palate than on the nose, with pleasant acidity. Known for high aromatic intensity, wild berry notes, and notoriously rugged, rustic tannins, these are wines for aging that benefit from being aged in large barrels or tonneaux, which help soften the tannic component and develop balsamic and tertiary notes. 

Though, until recently viewed as different varietals, DNA testing has been performed on Abrusco and Abrostine using SSR (Simple Sequence Repeat) marker genotyping—the standard "genetic fingerprinting" method used in modern viticulture. The molecular profiling conclusively established that Abrusco and Abrostine are identical (the same single variety). Because they are genetically the same cultivar, Abrostine was officially categorized as a prime historical synonym for Abrusco. Formal testing and genetic matching were conducted by The University of Florence (Università degli Studi di Firenze) and the University of Siena, the CRA-VIC (now CREA) and the Julius Kühn Institute in Germany.

 

Historically, Abrusco and Colorino, deeply pigmented Tuscan red wine grapes, were thought to be entirely separate but related varieties due to morphological similarities and their shared classification as vitigni da colore (coloring grapes). However, DNA analysis has conclusively proved that Colorino is a synonym for Abrusco (making Abrusco the primary/prime name for the variety). DNA testing performed by UC Davis confirmed this in 2016.

Sources: (https://www.quattrocalici.it/); (https://grokipedia.com/page/abrusco)

 

VIVC: (https://www.vivc.de/index.php?r=passport%2Fview&id=32)

 

Parentage: No parentage has been established for Abrusco

 

Tasting notes: Abrusco wines have a very deep ruby ​​red color with purple highlights. On the nose, they offer intense aromas of wild berries, sour cherry, and ripe plum, with hints of dark spices, leather, and licorice root.

On the palate, they are bold, with pronounced tannins, significant acidity, and a long, austere aromatic persistence with subtle spicy notes such as black pepper and star anise.

The mainstream varietals that most closely resemble Abrusco in profile are Syrah (Shiraz), while its structural role in winemaking heavily mirrors Petit Verdot.

Sources: (https://www.quattrocalici.it/); (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abrusco)

 

Food Pairings: Abrusco has the potential to become a meditation wine or to pair with traditional robust Tuscan dishes, such as stewed wild boar, aged pecorino cheeses and grilled meats.      Source: (https://www.quattrocalici.it/)

 

Production areas: Capalbio DOC. It is also permitted in the stricter Chianti Classico DOCG subzone, limited to a maximum of 20% other red varieties, and can be used in the more flexible Toscana IGT appellation, allowing for broader blending options in Tuscan wines

 

Producers: (https://www.autoctovino.com/grape/abrusco-abrostine-colorino/); (https://www.autoctovino.com/grape/colorino-colorino-del-valdarno-see-abrusco/)

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Countries grown: Italy