RARE GRAPE VARIETAL RESOURCE

History: This is a wonderful guide written by Nikki Dickerson – My Vintner Project. As such, I’ve chosen to offer it virtually unaltered.

Founded in 1971, Vernaccia di Oristano was the first DOC established in Sardinia. For the record, cultivation area has reduced from 1500 hectares in the 1970’s to 435 in 2010. Its current status has since decreased.

A rare Italian white wine that, when paired properly, is just as delicious with dinner as it is with dessert. It is also a wine to meditate over when savored on its own. One of Italy’s masterful yet widely unsung wines, Vernaccia di Oristano is reminiscent of sherry.

Time is the secret to all successful Vernaccia (vernacular, meaning indigenous) di Oristano.

Wines are produced in both a sweet and dry style. The geographic (DOC) indication requires a two-year minimum aging period in barrels where the alcohol rises naturally—sometimes surpassing 15% to 16.5%—solely through slow evaporation of water through the porous wood during extended aging. The Superiore designation requires a minimum alcohol level of 15.5% and a minimum of three years barrel aging; while the Riserva designation goes a step further with a four-year minimum barrel-aging requirement.

Though the aromas, flavors and structure of Vernaccia di Oristano may be reminiscent of Amontlllado sherry (a wine fortified to 17-18% ABV), Vernaccia di Oristano is made exclusively from the indigenous Vernaccia grape, native to Sardinia which is produced in an oxidative aging process. This unique process could not be possible without the help of the flor yeast strain of saccharomyces cerevisiae, the common yeast that makes alcoholic fermentation possible.

The flor yeast strain has both a fermentative and oxidative metabolism. First, the yeast completes its primary alcoholic fermentation. They consume sugars, converting these sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The yeast’s environment (the must), which was once rich in fermentable sugar is now rich in ethyl alcohol. Due to the change in environmental resources, this strain of flor yeast transitions to a different oxidative metabolism. Now, the flor can use oxygen and non-fermentable resources (i.e. ethanol or organic acids) to convert energy. 

In need of oxygen for survival, the flor must move to the surface of the wine. This flor yeast strain has a higher unsaturated fatty acid content that decreases their density. They also obtain carbon dioxide bubbles present from fermentation and this adds additional lift for the flor to reach the top of the wine. Furthermore, the cells do not interact with water, which causes them to cluster together. Then, the flor comes together and forms a film on the wine’s surface. 

Over years of aging, the wine undergoes a gradual oxidation under this protective layer, producing wines with positive oxidative characteristics, such as nutty, savory, or umami aromas and flavors. For Vernaccia di Oristano, chestnut or oak barrels are traditionally used during the aging process and are filled to about 90 percent capacity, leaving some headspace for oxygen. This wine also experiences significant evaporation through the aging process, thus further concentrating the magnificent aromas and flavors of this wine, while also increasing the alcohol and glycerol levels.

Sources: (https://vintnerproject.com/wine/a-guide-to-vernaccia-di-oristano-sardinias-most-fascinating-wine/) & (https://www.quattrocalici.it/)

VIVC: http://www.vivc.de/index.php?r=passport%2Fview&id=12997

Parentage: Unknown

Tasting notes: Ethereal and pungent, bursting with almond blossom, walnut husk, dried apricot, candied citrus peel, and subtle hints of coastal sea spray. Superiore and Riserva expressions develop deeper nuances of chestnut honey, figs, coffee, and warm spices.

Exceptionally bone-dry despite the sweet-leaning, nutty aromas. Full-bodied, warm, and velvety, with a high natural alcohol content (often 15% to 19%) derived entirely from fermentation.  Long and persistent finish, leaving a distinct, pleasant signature of bitterness and saline minerality. (https://vintnerproject.com/wine/a-guide-to-vernaccia-di-oristano-sardinias-most-fascinating-wine/)

Food Pairings: Vernaccia di Oristano is a savory wine, making it a companion for a variety of savory dishes, as well as desserts.

The wine is full-bodied yet buoyant with a distinctive, dry finish, making it a great option for seafood pairings. In Sardinia, this wine is paired with a local dish of Sea Bream and wild greens that were cooked with Vernaccia.

Vernaccia di Oristano is bold enough to stand alongside heartier meat dishes like porchetta. Other options include bacon-wrapped dales stuffed with Gorgonzola, grilled artichokes with shaved bottarga, chestnut and sage ravioli, or a truffle risotto. This wine is also delicious with salty, cured black olives and strong, dry cheeses.

As desserts go, the dryness of Vernaccia di Oristano complements sweet chocolate desserts or almond or hazelnut pastries. (https://vintnerproject.com/wine/a-guide-to-vernaccia-di-oristano-sardinias-most-fascinating-wine/)

Production areas: Vernaccia di Oristano DOC

Producers: https://www.autoctovino.com/grape/vernaccia-di-oristano/

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